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Mary and Dave Gromelski are owners of Gavi's Restaurant and Catering in downtown Willoughby.
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When I told a friend I was reviewing Gavi’s, she asked, “Why? They don’t need any help.” She meant Gavi’s reputation precedes itself and doesn’t need me to inform anyone. And she’s right. By now most everyone knows Mary and Dave Gromelski serve up great Italian meals at the historic downtown Willoughby eatery.
But if I needed an excuse to eat at Gavi’s, I thought this one was perfect. I’ve been to Gavi’s on several occasions – once to celebrate a new job, another time just for dessert and espresso in my quest to find the best tiramisu (Gavi’s has some of the best around – it’s made from Mary Gramelski’s mom’s recipe). Most recently I had appetizers during a fun, wine-infused brainstorming session with a client.
The other time that sticks out in my mind is the one I remember as the mac n’cheese visit. Not even a distant cousin of the Kraft variety in the blue box, this creamy concoction made with American and mascarpone cheeses is scrumptious. Make sure you have it with the homemade sausage.
Every time I go I am delighted by the impeccable service and the hushed atmosphere of the former 1900s-era power plant. Golden sunshine, the first Northeast Ohio had seen in what seemed like months, streamed in through the skylight in the high-ceilinged dining room on this occasion.
Despite two groups of seven at nearby tables, it was possible to hear every word our server said without straining our ears, as well as to hold a conversation without raising our voices.
Each meal at Gavi’s begins with traditional crostini spread with some type of tapenade or other. This one blended the intense flavors of sun-dried tomatoes and kalamata olives. The French call this type of appetizer an amuse bouche. Translated literally it is mouth amuser, but the expression means to entertain the mouth. Their purpose is to wake up your taste buds or to simply give you something to eat while waiting for your meal to arrive.
I recommend trying an appetizer or two as well. Antipasti are abundant at Gavi’s. We tried the crocchette di risotto and involtini di melanzane – risotto cakes and stuffed eggplant – not nearly as interesting sounding in English. Beautifully presented in an edible cheese bowl (picture a taco salad shell) and covered with frizzled leeks, the risotto cakes were hidden from view.
Unfortunately, the rich flavor of risotto that I love was just as well hidden. If I hadn’t known I was eating risotto – this rice variety is grown in Italy in the Po River valley – I wouldn’t have known I was eating risotto. With the second bite I detected the consistency of the rice, but still not the flavor. A third bite revealed the combined tastes of Italian sausage, mozzarella and Parmiagiano cheeses, but didn’t fulfill my desire for risotto. The lightly breaded cakes were just a bit overcooked so that might have disguised the taste.
We were much happier with the eggplant. So thinly sliced it could have doubled as a crepe, it was wrapped around a blend of four cheeses with an overall appearance and texture of ricotta. I remember from another visit a delicious antipasti plate filled with imported meats, cheeses, olives and peppers. The peperoni arrabiatta, stuffed peppers, are also a good choice.
We were disappointed again by the house salad, served with each entrée. The salad is quite plain, just a pile of assorted somewhat wilted greens, covered with an Italian balsamic dressing that didn’t have a lot of flavor.
This time I tried the caramelle al mascarpone, handmade, candy-shaped pasta filled with ground veal, ricotta and spinach served in a roasted tomato mascarpone cheese sauce. I was not disappointed. It was wonderful, the sauce almost as sweet as the candy the accompanying pasta resembles. My dining companion had the fish special of the day, a red fish he said was perfectly prepared. I tried a bite but found the flavor too fishy for my taste. It was served on a bed of couscous with broccoli.
Many other pastas, panini (sandwiches), salads and entrees such as rack of lamb, beef medallions, duck and various seafood, chicken and veal selections, are also on the menu. As its reputation also has let on, Gavi’s isn’t the least expensive place in town to have lunch. Our repast set us back more than $100 with the tip. Of course we had two appetizers, two glasses of wine, two entrees, two desserts, coffee and espresso.
Go to Gavi’s. You’ll surely find something there to entertain your mouth. Gavi’s is open for lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday. For reservations, call 440-942-8008.
Laura Freeman is editor of the Lake County Business Journal.
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