Passersby of Mentor ’s Noosa Bistro should be aware that the old maxim about not judging a book by its cover fits restaurants too. Outwardly nondescript and poorly situated at 7418 Mentor Ave. near the heavily trafficked intersection of Ohio 306 and U.S. 20, Noosa makes up for it inside.
It’s named for the Queensland, Australia, city of Noosa, an east coast resort town known for its upscale dining.
Heavy wooden Venetian blinds hide the uninspiring view of the parking lot and the hustle and bustle of Mentor Ave., creating an atmosphere both quiet and intimate. Live plants grow vigorously despite the lack of sunlight. Covered in white linen, each table is illuminated only by its own dangling light, increasing the sense of intimacy.
Billed as a martini and wine bar, Noosa has a wide selection of both. Tempted as my companion and I were by the holiday martinis with enticing names like Chocolate Snowman and Candy Cane, we instead chose coffee to warm us up from the cold January weather.
To further warm us, we sampled a bowl of the soup of the day, chicken curry ($5). Chicken aplenty, with just enough carrots, basmati rice, corn, and green and baby lima beans, floated in a savory broth flavored with fresh basil, onions and celery. Mmm, mmm, good.
Chef William Espinoza serves a different soup preparation daily. House favorites include lobster bisque, clam chowder and tomato basil. Espinoza is an El Salvador transplant. He has 10 years experience in the kitchen, most notably at the former Piccolo Mundo in downtown Cleveland .
He was hard pressed to pick a favorite lunch selection, but finally settled on the salmon. The Asian-style, soy-ginger glazed fish is served with sticky rice, Asian slaw and tobiko aioli (a fancy name for flavored mayo), topped with sesame seeds.
Another favorite Chef Espinoza mentioned was the Noosa salad. I already knew how good it was since my entrée came with a choice of a side Caesar or Noosa salad. Flavors of toasted walnuts, dried cherries and crumbled bleu cheese atop a bed of mixed greens drizzled generously with raspberry vinaigrette melded together to create a wonderful blend of tastes. A full-size version is $6.
For an appetizer, we had the gingersnap-crusted calamari. Tender, not rubbery as squid tends to be, and slightly spicy, the lightly breaded rings tasted almost sweet dunked in lemon aioli.
My entrée, grilled sashimi-grade ahi tuna served medium-rare over a mound of garlic mashed potatoes and fresh greens with tomato vinaigrette, was $12. Sushi lover or not, anyone who likes fresh fish would enjoy the tuna. More seared than grilled, it was fork-tender and still red inside, and quite delicious.
After running our server, Laura, ragged with requests for grated asiago cheese, freshly ground black pepper and a coffee warm-up, my companion settled in to try his capellini arrabiata ($8). The long, thin pasta is served in a spicy marinara sauce tossed with capers, onions, garlic, white wine and fresh herbs. He added Italian sausage for $2.
When he finally finished his requests from our server and picked up his fork, he looked at his plate and exclaimed, “That’s a lot of food. It’s enough for two people.” He took the remainder home and brought it to work for lunch the next day.
Always one to watch the budget, my satiated companion cited another old axiom – you get what you pay for.
“This is a fresh upgrade from your normal, everyday lunch,” he said. “Although the prices are a little higher, it’s well worth the extra buck or two.”
Other lunch menu selections include sandwiches such as a half-pound burger ($7), a crab cake sandwich ($8), grilled vegetable wrap (at $6, one of the least expensive items on the menu), the loaded Noosa club ($8) and a chicken sandwich ($7).
Flatbread pizzas ($6-$7), scallops served with corn chowder ($12), a petite filet of beef served with roasted garlic-parmesan potato gratin ($12), as well an assortment of pasta dishes, fill out the menu.
Seafood pasta with mussels, shrimp, clams, shallots and tomatoes, and chicken fettuccine alfredo with peas and shallots, both in a white wine butter sauce and both $9, and chicken pesto pasta – roasted red peppers, artichokes in a pesto sauce ($9), would please those not carb-counting.
We tried the homemade tiramisu at Laura’s suggestion. The espresso and chocolate flavored dessert which she had brought to her family’s holiday gathering had been a big hit. With two forks, it didn’t take long for us to devour the airy ladyfingers dipped in espresso and swathed in creamy mascarpone cheese. We dipped each bite in the chocolate and caramel sauce drizzled artistically on the plate. Chef Espinoza knows presentation is key.
Noosa Bistro will celebrate its two-year anniversary in February. Owner Susan Stanovsek opened her first restaurant, Redback Jack’s, in the warehouse district in 1995. She moved the Australian-themed restaurant to her native Mentor in 1997.
Susan comes by the Australian bit naturally. Her husband, Robert, is from Melbourne . He has lived in the United States since 1990 and is quite proud of his wife’s venture.
“It’s a great affordable alternative to downtown fine dining,” Robert said. “You’ll find similar, comparable entrees at much more reasonable prices.”
“And, the martini bar is the place to be seen in Lake County ,” he added.
The couple has many years experience in the restaurant industry. Robert likes to add his input to the menu. He and Susan soon will be updating it with Chef Espinoza. The revised menu will include Chilean sea bass, duck, halibut and a risotto.
Noosa Bistro is open for lunch from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Dinner is served from 4 to 10 p.m. The entire restaurant can be rented for a private party, or one section can be reserved for a smaller group of up to 35 people. For more information or reservations, call (440) 953-1088.
Laura Freeman reviews restaurants regularly for the Lake County Business Journal. |
