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By Terri Nighswonger
I live in Chesterland and had seen the sign for Sapore go up in the small berg nearly a year ago. I was curious. I wondered how many people the small converted house could hold, when they were open, what they served. I had even mentioned it to editor Laura Freeman and we had talked about paying the restaurant a visit. For nearly a year I remained curious.
Chesterland is home to several fast food restaurants, a few cafes and a chain establishment or two but nowhere I'd really want to go for a special occasion. Or so I thought. When my husband and I were planning a night out for our 22nd anniversary I said, "Let's try Sapore." I called, made the reservation and we were set for a delicious anniversary dinner. 
We were familiar with the Loretta Paginini School of Cooking and the International Culinary Arts & Sciences Institute and knew the restaurant had to be good.
Sapore, by the way, means taste, owner Loretta Paginini told me later. She also said when you come to Sapore "you will be challenged." I know I was challenged to eat some things that aren't usually on my dining list. My mother would be so proud.
We chose the four-course wine flight which is $65. Without wine, the cost is $55 or you can have a three-course meal with wine for $40; $30 without wine.
With a wine flight the chef pairs the wine with your meal, but you can also order off the wine list or bring your own with a $10 cork fee. The wines are carefully chosen by Paginini's husband Emil who has a "passion for wine," she says.
The meal began with our seating at a small table for two. The restaurant is small, holding around 30 diners. Reservations are required and begin at 5:30 p.m. on Friday and Saturday evenings. Once you are there, Paginini says there's no hurry, "that's your table for the evening."
Once seated, we enjoyed a sparkling wine -- a sort of Italian champagne -- and were served bread that was baked in-house. All the foods served at Sapore are locally grown and prepared. There's olive oil from Chagrin Falls (the olives are imported from Italy), goat cheese from Hiram and fresh vegetables and meats from local growers. Chef Matthew Anderson, an instructor at ICASI, runs the restaurant and professional students provide support.
Professional students wear a "multitude of toques," Paginini said. A toque is the tall white hat worn by a chef. The taller the hat, the higher the level of chef, she said.
Since we were unfamiliar with most of the dishes, my husband and I decided we would each order something different and share. There are two choices for each course on the evening's menu which changes every two weeks. Our first course consisted of chestnut soup with crispy duck and rock shrimp ragu with Jerusalem artichoke puree. Both were exceptional.
With wine and more bread to warm us, our second course consisted of fresh pasta with Mackenzie Farms goat cheese, Swiss chard and walnuts, and risotto of duck and dried fruit. Who knew you could get all this delicious gourmet food in a cozy, intimate setting -- all located in Chesterland.
With a dish to cleanse the pallet, we were off to our main entree of braised beef short-ribs with creamy polenta and roasted vegetables and bacon-wrapped salmon with beets, flageolet beans and pistou broth. Flageolets are the caviar of beans, according to my Google search and pistou is made with cloves of garlic, fresh basil and olive oil.
Finally, with little room to spare, we enjoyed a dessert of caramel chocolate bread pudding with roasted banana ice cream and pineapple upside down cake with cardamom cream.
Once we were settled back with our coffee and tea, we had a chance to enjoy the restaurant's ambiance. The Tuscan-yellow walls are graced with "Images of Tuscany" from photographer Lori Diemer. Paginini says the pictures change on a regular basis to highlight different artists and photographers.
With her little corner of Italy in Chesterland, Paginini has already garnered a loyal following. She has several patrons with standing reservations, even one that created their own "reserved" sign for their favorite table.
"It's always been my dream to have a restaurant," Paginini says.
With her dream fulfilled, Paginini's toque stands tall.h
Terri Nighswonger is graphic designer for the Lake County Business Journal and editor of Family magazines and an aspiring foodie. |
